No-fry moussaka

The most famous Greek dish involves a lot of hands-on frying and, if we don’t get the temperature right, if can end up very heavy and oily.

This is an oven-based version that we assemble in five 20-minute stages.
Aside from the roasting pan, we use a frying pan for the ragu and a saucepan for the bechamel. That’s it.

It’s very reheatable, very work-lunchable and totally tops.

Ingredients

Bechamel

• 100g plain flour
• 100g olive oil
• 750ml milk
• 2 tablespoons grated pecorino
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Ragu

• 500g lamb mince
• 1 cup all purpose tomato salsa (if we don’t have such a thing in your fridge at all times, use a can of chopped tomatoes and add herbs and garlic)
• 3 cloves
• 3 bay leaves
• 1 cinnamon stick

For the roasting pan

• 1 sliced onion 
• 3 sliced potatoes 
• 1 sliced egg plant 
• 1 sliced zucchini 
• .5 cup olive oil 
• Salt, pepper, thyme, crushed garlic

Method

Preheat the oven to 200º C
Lightly oil a roasting pan about 30cm by 20cm
For the slicing, I use a mandolin (mine’s a V-slicer) as the final product benefits from being evenly cooked.

Wash, halve and slice the potatoes (I don’t peel them - I don’t see the point)
Peel and halve the onions, and slice them.

Oven 1

Place the potatoes and onions in an even layer in the roasting pan with crushed garlic, salt, pepper and thyme.

Drizzle with olive oil and place in oven for 20 minutes.

While this stage is happening, get onto our ragu.

Get olive oil in our frying pan to just start smoking, then add the lamb mince.

Brown the mince, breaking it up with a wooden spoon. There should be some caramelisation and crunchy bits - we are browning, not greying.

Add the salsa and make sure we scrape up all the crunchy stuff from the bottom of the pan.

Add bay leaves, cloves and cinnamon

Drop the heat and simmer.

This needs to be reduced down to a ragu - a dryish sauce - not runny. Don’t worry, there is plenty of time.

Top and tail, and slice the egg plant.

Remove the roasting pan (the potatoes should be browning and slightly bistering).

Oven 2

Add the egg plant in an even layer with crushed garlic, salt, pepper and thyme, and drizzle with olive oil.

Return to oven for 20 minutes.

Bechamel time!

Add the olive oil to the saucepan and bring to a medium heat.

Stir in the flour to make the roux (the basis of our white sauce).

We are looking for a smooth consistency and the right colour.

It starts faily pale, then turns golden, and then a deep golden - and that’s where we stop it. Before it
becomes choclaty.

Remove from the heat and add the milk all at once.

Using a whisk, stir until the mixture is smooth, then return to the heat and bring to a gentle boil, stirring continuously, until the mixture thickens.

Remove from heat.

Stir in egg yolks and pecorino.

Oven 3

Remove pan from oven and add the sliced zuccini, crushed garlic, salt, pepper, thyme and drizzle with olive oil.

Oven 4

Remove pan from oven. Remove cloves, cinnamon stick and bay leaves from ragu and spread the ragu evenly over the top.
Return to oven for 20 minutes.

Oven 5

Spread then bechmal evenly over the top, and sprinkle with some more grated pecorino. Return to the oven.

Now we have to pay attention.

Set the alarm for 10 minutes.

We don’t want it to burn - but we don’t want it to be blond.

What we are after is some deep, chocolaty brown blistery areas.

After 10 minutes, rotate the pan and continue wer cook until it looks just right.

Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes.

Eat

Serve with a big, green salad.

Watermelon and ouzo is optional (but not really).

We belong together

I still love exploring Greek flavours and food styles, and combining them with the Asian cooking that consumed me in my first bachelor shift.

Here is a meal of spiced lamb rissoles, fried zucchini with balsamic vinegar dressing, yogurt and mint sauce, with lime and saffron rice pilau.

Throughout this, the mint, chilli, citrus all have fun playing nicely with their foodie buddies.

Let’s start with the easy bit - the sauce.

Yogurt and mint sauce

Ingredients

• 200g Greek style yogurt
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 4 tbsp chopped fresh mint
• 1 tsp ground black pepper
• 1 tsp ground coriander seeds

Method

Combine ingredients in a bowl. Add some extra ground coriander seeds last. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

Zucchini with balsamic vinegar dressing

Ingredients

• 4 medium zucchinis
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 1 tbsp Korean chilli flakes (“red pepper flakes”)
• 1 tbsp maple syrup
• .5 cup halved cherry tomatoes
• .25 cup torn mint leaves
• 4 tbsp olive oil

Method

• Heat oil in a frying pan on medium-high
• Top and tail the zucchinis and quarter them, halving them long first and short second
• Once the oil is hot, fry the zucchinis cut-side down for three minutes, then turn for another three
• Remove the a plate and keep warm in the oven
• In a small bowl, combine lemon juice, vinegar, chilli flakes and syrup, stirring to dissolve the syrup
• When read, serve zucchinis with scattered tomatoes, mint leaves and a good splash of the dressing.

Lime and saffron pilau

Ingredients

• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 2 cups basmati rice
• 3.75 cups vegetable or chicken stock
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 lime roughly chopped
• .5 tsp saffron strands soaked in about a tbsp warm water
• 2 tbsp slivered almonds
• 2 tbsp currants
• 1 tsp salt

Method

• In small to medium saucepan, heat the low to medium (no oil). Add the almonds, tossing every minute or so until golden brown. If any get burnt, chuck ’em. Remove almonds to a small plate or bowl
• Add oil to pan and bring to low to medium heat then sauté the onion for two minutes, then garlic for another two
• Add the rice and sauté for 5–10 minutes until translucent
• Add lime and saffron (including the water it’s been soaking in), stir and sauté for another 2 minutes
• Tip the mixture into your rice cooker (this is against my general principle of not using two pots when one pot will do - but I love my rice cooker…)
• Add the stock and salt, cover and set to “cook”
• Once cooked, turn the cooker off and stir through the almonds and currants
• Cover until ready to use

Spiced lamb rissole

Ingredients

• 500g Lamb mince 20% fat
• 1 Small onion finely chopped
• 2 to 3 chilli peppers, seeded and finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 egg, beaten
• ½ tsp Salt
• 1 tsp garam masala
• 4 tbsp vegetable oil

Method

• As with all food prep, especially when it involves meat, take the ingredients out of the fridge early so that they are close to room temperature
• Combine all the ingredients except the oil in a bowl and mix evenly
• Divide the mixture into six even balls, then flatten into patties
• Bring oil to a medium to high heat in a frying pan
• Fry patties two minutes each side

Gosht saagwala - lamb and spinach

Ingredients

• .5 kg boneless, cubed lamb
• 2 medium bunches English spinach, chopped - NOT silverbeet
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 2 cups water
• .25 cup yogurt
• 2 tablespoons peanut oil

Marinade

• .5 cup yogurt
• 1 tablespoon grated ginger
• 3 coves chopped garlic
• 3 chopped coriander roots
• .5 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 teaspoon garam masala

Whole spices

• 2 bay leaves
• 3 cardamom pods
• 3 cloves
• 1 cinnamon stick or bark
• .5 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
• 6–8 black peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

Side

• Chopped coriander leaves
• Chopped tomato
• Slivered almonds
• Chopped fresh green and red chilli (optional)
• Lime slice

Method

Combine marinade and coat lamb pieces and set aside for 30 minutes at least, but several hours or overnight if you can.

Blanch spinach with water and let rest also.

In a casserole dish, dry-fry whole spices until they are fragrant (do not burn).

Add peanut oil, then chopped onion.

Sauté until soft and translucent.

Turn heat to high and add lamb and all the marinade. Use a wooden spoon to stop the mixture from burning at the bottom of the pan.

Once the colour starts to turn a rich, darker colour, add the water from the blanched spinach (I use this water to rinse the marinade bowl), bring to boil, add spinach and yogurt, and simmer, partially covered for 1 hour, or until the liquid reduces and green colour of the spinach intensifies.

Serve with side, using some of this to garnish main.

Lamb two ways

A rainy no-child Sunday begins with a hangover and a bus ride to Marrickville Market.

I love cooking and shopping with my boys, but I struggle to find the right balance of doing jobs and needfuls, and just hanging out, playing games and reading, and going on adventures. I suppose that, over any 2-month period, you do all of those things, you can’t be too bad a dad…

This week, I’m cooking ahead with a leg of lamb from Marrickville Market’s Young Lamb Man. Young is here. Marrickville Market is here.

As you know, I like to butterfly a leg of lamb to retain the bones for stock, and marinate and barbecue for yiros.

Today, though, I tried to make the most of the two major cuts in a lamb leg - the shank, and everything else.

The shank I set aside for a bachelor soup or the slow cooker, while the rest I butterflied, rubbed with garden herbs, and tied into a roasting roll.

The roasting roll is now marinating in the fridge, with the shank tucked into the freezer.

The roast is a 3-boy dinner, with enough for school lunch wrap the following day. Super!

Recipe - easy carving herbed lamb roast

Ingredients

• Butterflied leg of lamb
• 2 sprigs rosemary
• 2 sprigs sage
• 1 clove garlic
• 2 tablespoon olive oil
• cooking twine for tying

Method

With a mortar and pestle (or blender) create a herb paste with the rosemary, sage, garlic and olive oil.

Lay out the lamb with the fat side down, and rub the paste into the lamb.

Roll the lamb and tie with cooking twine. Today, I used three butchers knots across, and one down the length, which works fine - but there are prettier, more elaborate ways to do it.

Place it, covered, in the fridge for a of hours (or overnight) in this case.

Remove from fridge about an hour before you plan to cook it.

Preheat oven to 200º.

Roast uncovered for 15 minutes. Drop temperature to 160º. Remove lamb from oven to baste with pan juices. Return to the oven for another 30 mins, basting again after 15 mins.

This should achieve a medium-rare roast, with lovely pinkish slices with a crispy crust.

If you prefer medium or well done, just add one or two extra 15 min cooking periods - but don’t forget to baste for each!

Remove from oven and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before carving.

Butterflying lamb leg and removing the shank

Tying a butchers knot

Greek-to-Thai rebrand

On the weekend I popped over the river to Campsie and had my Chinese butcher butterfly a leg of lamb for yiros. But rather than go straight to a mini Greek feast (I didn’t have my kids last weekend), I turned my mind to what else I might do with marinated, medium rare, barbecued strips of lamb.

Re-enter the Bachelor Food principle of rebranding or, in this case, pre-branding!

In the recipe below, I pan fry a fillet of lamb. Last Sunday, I sliced from my freshly barbecued lamb prepared, the remainder of which was set aside for school and work lunches, and yiros dinners - including sliced onions, lemon juice and sumac - but that is another story.

For this recipe, strong, well-defined tastes are what you want. Use fresh herbs, not dried. For instance, I would normally use lemon grass, but had run out, so, instead of using dried lemon grass, I substituted chopped leaves from my lime tree.

Recipe: Thai lamb larb (warm lamb salad)

Serves 2 as a main, 4 as an entree

Ingredients

• 300g lamb backstrap fillet
• 2 tablespoons peanut oil
• .5 cup chopped roasted, unsalted peanuts
• 2 cups shredded baby cos lettuce leaves
• 1 lebanese cucumber roughly chopped
• 1 thinly sliced red onion
• 2 thinly sliced radish
• 1 carrot julienne
• 2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves
• 375g rice noodles

Sauce

• .25 cups ground, dry fried rice
• 1 tablespoon peanut oil
• 3 tablespoon fish sauce
• Juice 1 lemon
• 1 tablespoon palm sugar
• Chopped fresh herbs, about a teaspoon each: Kaffir lime leaves, mint (or lemon grass, shallots, coriander - whatever is fresh!)
• 2 birds eye chilies, chopped

Method

Heat rice in a dry frying pan, and cook until golden brown. Remove from pan and crush with a mortar and pestle.

Combine lettuce, onion, radish and carrot.

Place peanut oil, fish sauce and lemon juice in a small saucepan and heat, but don’t boil. Add sugar, crushed rice and chopped herbs and chili.

Heat peanut oil in a frying pan on medium-high heat. Fry lamb fillet two minutes on each side, then let rest at room temperature for 10 minutes. Slice into thin strips. The strips should be browned and slightly crispy on the outside, and lovely and pink, but not bloody, in the middle.

Place the lamb strips into the sauce.

Boil water in a saucepan and add noodles. Rice noodles cook very quickly, about two minutes should do it. Strain.

Arrange on plates or bowls: first noodles, then salad vegetables, then lamb strips, then sauce, and last garnish with crushed peanuts and chopped coriander leaves.

Is Yiros. Is Good!

I love a hamburger, I love a doner kebab. But nothing beats a yiros. And the fact that it’s so easy to make at home says it all. Simple ingredients, simply combined.

Pita bread is softer than lebanese bread, and much softer than lavash. This makes it perfect for warming on the grill without becoming brittle.

When ordering the lamb, I ask my butcher to debone and butterfly the leg. If done well, you get a single piece of lamb, one side with a layer of fat, one side lean, and of fairly even thickness. If that’s not what you get, find another butcher (or ask more explicitly next time, as I’ve often found that butchers and other artisans like being asked to show off their skills, rather than all day serving up standard cuts). Ask for the bones too, and place in your stock bag in your freezer.

But it's not so difficult, and kind of fun, to do it yourself, so I've included a youtube how-to video at the bottom of this post.

For a single meal for me and my boys (say 2 or 3 yiros each) this leaves enough tasty lamb for a couple lunches and another meal at least.

Recipe: Yiros

Ingredients

Lamb

• 1 leg of lamb, boned and butterflied
• 2 tablespoons dried oregano
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 lemons, juiced

Yogurt sauce

• 1 cup Greek style yogurt
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 lemon juiced
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

Other accompaniments

• 3 tomatoes
• .5 iceberg lettuce
• 2 onions

Method

Lamb

Combine oil, lemon juice, crushed garlic and oregano.

Place lamb in a baking dish or similar, and rub marinade over the surface of the lamb, making sure the surface is well covered. Cover and refrigerate overnight or for 2 hours at least.

Yogurt sauce

The yogurt sauce can be done and kept overnight too, as the flavours develop over time.

Greek style yogurt is creamy and smooth. If using regular yogurt, it’s best to hang it overnight in cheese cloth. Even Greek yogurt can be strained in this way for an hour our two, which will give it more room to accommodate the lemon juice and retain its creamy consistency.

Crush garlic, and stir through yogurt with cumin.

Accompaniments

Finely slice tomatoes and lettuce Finely slice onions and soak in lemon juice

Pita bread

Heat your bbq plate (or frying pan) to medium heat. Brush pita bread with olive oil. Place oiled side onto cooking surface. When the underside is browned and ready, quickly bush the upside and flip. Do this one, two or three at a time depending on how big the cooking surface is, and keep warm.

Lamb continued

Bring BBQ grill to high heat and place lamb fat side down for five minutes. Turn and cook for another five. Drop heat to low for another five. Remove from heat and let rest, covered, for ten.

Assembly

Now it’s assembly time!

I like having squares of grease-proof paper (get it?) or white paper bags on hand, because the kids love it, and it feels normal.

Brush the pita bread with the garlic and yogurt sauce. Kids may prefer supermarket tomato or or bbq sauce, but if you add a little of the white stuff, they might not notice - and the journey has begun!

Slice the lamb into thin slices and add, along with sliced tomatoes, shredded lettuce, and onions.

Roll ’em. Eat ’em. Is yiros. Is yum!

How to butterfly a leg of lamb